Consider the oyster: It holds only a little meat in its rough shell, but each tiny bite and drop of liquor is a classic delicacy, relished by gourmands.
The unassuming mollusks only come via import in our landlocked state, but they're easy enough to find. And at Jax Fish House (1539 17th St.; 303-292-5767), a cheerful joint nestled in the heart of LoDo, this month's oyster order is unusually huge.
For one thing, they've declared March "Oyster Month." But there's another reason for the bivalve binge: Team Highland Pacific.
Last year during Jax's annual oyster-eating contest, Highland Pacific guzzled 116 little guys in two minutes. Obviously, they won.
The winner of the individual contest, named Ang, consumed almost as many oysters solo — a whopping 95.
"I'm amazed at what they do," says Bryce Clark, marketing and events director for Big Red F Restaurant Group, of the contestants. "We actually have people who end up doing it every year."
It's no different this year. In fact, according to Clark, the slots are "pretty much full" for next week's oyster contests at Jax's Denver and Boulder (928 Pearl St.; 303-444-1811) locations.
Though it may be too late to register for the oyster orgy, competitive-eating fans can still get their fix by attending the two contests. Both Jax locations encourage spectators, and the Oyster Month menu offers lots of specials for the inclined, including the great deal of $10 for 10 oysters. Expect a run on the French Quarter Fizz, Jax's signature Oyster Month drink, too.
As in years past, the entry fees for the competition go to charity. This year, the beneficiary is Make It Right, a group helping rebuild homes destroyed by Hurricane Katrina. Plus, for every oyster ordered this month at Jax, 5 cents will go to the fund.
As a lifelong landlubber, this reporter has not yet dared eat one of the precious packages. Clark is full of assurances, though, that it's a real treat.
"If you order the right kind they're absolutely delicious," she says. Her favorite is the Kunomoto variety.
Nevertheless, she says, "I think it takes a lot of courage to slurp down 100 of them."
Courage, indeed.
Watch the oyster faithful test their strength in two events: On Tuesday at 7 p.m., teams get sloppy at Jax in Denver. Wednesday at Jax Boulder, brave individuals tackle their own oyster piles at 8 p.m.
Lazy Sunday. It's not like anyone needs an excuse to drink on Sunday — millions of sports fans have seen to that — but the Loft (821 22nd St.; 303-296-4604) is making it especially enticing.
The bar's new night, "Strawberry Sundays," offers a tasty way to ease into the work week. With $3 Champagne and strawberries galore, the usual Sunday night blues will evaporate like magic.
If you need a swifter kick in the rear, share the two-for-one Long Island special with another working stiff. Or knock back a $3 shot if it's that bad.
DJs provide the music — mostly mash-ups — and special events like fashion shows and live performances are planned for the future.
Early birds are encouraged: It's free for ladies and $5 for men before 10 p.m. It's probably a good idea to go early anyway — nothing's worse than a Monday morning hangover.
Kathleen St. John: 303-954-1568 or kstjohn@gmail.com.
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